August Outturn Offerings
Cask No. 37.51 $130
The saloon of a classic yacht
Speyside, Spey
Gorgeous colour and an immediate impact of sherry-related aromas: dried fruits, figs macerated in dark rum, strong black tea, crème caramel, polished oak and waxed leather – the image of a classic yacht sprang to mind. The taste is bitter-sweet, with burnt salt taffy and ginger cake, but also herbal and spicy notes (tarragon and mouth snuff) and chilli chocolate in the long finish. Immediate sulphur notes with water, but these soon give way to crème brulée, fruit cake, dried figs and old furniture. Still bitter-sweet to taste (burnt raisins, caramel); at once cooling and warming, with a hint of blackcurrant in the finish. The distillery was built by a very large man named John Smith.
Drinking tip: A reward for the crew who won the race
Colour: Deep mahogany, with rosewood lights Date distilled: March 1993
Cask: First-fill Sherry butt Alcohol: 60.0%
Age: 18 years USA allocation: 120 bottles
Cask No. 4.164 $100
Muddy Tractor
Highland, Island
Rich Madagascan vanilla with lemon barley to start on the nose. On the first sip of spirit, the panel’s composure was tested. There was an immediate welling up of eyes. The sensation was akin to sucking on full strength peppermint sweets. An old mud covered tractor remembered one of the panellists. An unexpected combination of flavours mingled favourably- lapsang souchong tea and chilli chocolate. With water the Panel got recently extinguished camp fires and a heather covered field on a hot summer’s day interspersed with wild garlic. The mouth had us chewing on smoked bacon to start, then were sucking on dusty boiled lemon sweets for our dessert.
Time to drink: Camping trip in late September
Colour: Honey over porridge Date distilled: June 2000
Cask: First-fill barrel Alcohol: 62.0%
Age: 11 years USA allocation: 78 bottles
Cask No. 27.103 $110
Fishing boats in Campbeltown harbour
Campbeltown
Terrific layering on the nose – peat-smoke, coal and bandages – seaweed, shellfish and smoked haddock – melon, coconut and burnt orange – toffee, caramel and Cornish cream teas – a complex entanglement of pleasing aromas. With water we got apple, banana, peppered fish soup and bonfires – one or two panellists got paint. The palate was big and tongue-roasting – honey, toffee and marshmallow sweetness arm-wrestling with smoke, ash and salty pork crackling. In reduction we tasted more delicate smoke and buttery mackerel (fishing boats in Campbeltown harbour?) – all balanced by sweeter flavours of crystallised orange – from peaty to sweetie. From the oldest surviving Campbeltown distillery.
Drinking tip: For watching the world go by – especially by the harbour
Colour: Honey gold Date distilled: March 2000
Cask: Refill barrel Alcohol: 52.5%
Age: 12 years USA allocation: 90 bottles
Cask No. G3.3 $180
Curious but good
Grain
The shimmering, shape-shifting nose started with wood glue, then cricket bats, cigar boxes and polished furniture, before soaring into crème caramel, buttered brioche, vanilla and cafe crème – eventually we found tea-smoked duck. To taste, we got Lapsang Souchong and Turkish coffee, banana toffee and ‘licking butterscotch off a polished table’. The reduced nose seemed slightly odd, with initial raisin, Riesling and truffle oil resolving into honey, toffee and crunchy nut cornflake sweetness. The palate became sweet and spicy, ‘curious but good’ – hickory-smoked almonds, toasted hazelnuts, sandalwood, five-spice powder and apple skins in the finish. The Haymarket-based distillery closed in 1993.
Drinking tip: A dram to offer when something different is needed – needs an open mind
Colour: Old rolled gold Date distilled: April 1986
Cask: Refill barrel Alcohol: 56.0%
Age: 26 years USA allocation: 48 bottles
Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society at www.smwsa.com