In the new era of the bourbon boom, the entire industry is trying to distinguish themselves from the competition. This creates an incredibly dynamic and ever changing marketplace, one where the big producers struggle to stay relevant, while smaller producers struggle to find stocks that can viably compete. The only possible trajectory of that situation is the creation of something new – as the industry loves to call it “Whisky Innovation.” This is by no means a new trend as big companies have large R&D departments that are equally devoted to trying to predict the next trends as well as shape them. For a long time, this meant new whisky “flavors” artificially created in the lab to appeal to a certain demographic or profile.
But the explosion of craft distillers, the demise of brand loyalty, and the general proliferation of knowledge/interest about what consumers are actually drinking has led to a new phase in the future of whisky. It also strikes fear in the hearts of some purists out there, who have a strong argument to make about the centuries of whisky production that has preceded today. There’s a reason for some of the practices that have been adopted industry-wide, while other standards from eras past have been dismissed in the name of efficiency. Many craft distillers have ignored or otherwise altered industry standards in an effort to differentiate themselves, while several big producers have destroyed thousands of gallons of perfectly good stock trying to emulate some of the successful experiments of the craft side.
Many of the very best products in the innovation category take perfectly good whiskey and add something extra that turns it into GREAT whisky. Other experiments are simply the result of good sense, good taste, and some really good luck. Here are some of our favorite, non-traditional whiskies from producers both big and small that are reshaping the future of whisky as we know it.
Barrell “May 9, 2018″ Infinite Barrel Project Cask Strength American Whiskey (750ml) ($59.99)
This is a blend of Tennessee whiskey finished in Amaro barrels, 100% Polish Malted Rye finished in PX Sherry Casks, Tennessee rye finished in Curaçao barrels, Indiana whiskey, and Irish whiskey. Aged in a semi-solera and filled with anything and everything once it’s bottled, no whiskey like it will ever exist again. One of 3096 bottles. This tastes just as outrageous as it sounds and represents one of the most successful new styles of whisky on the market. The flavor profile is somewhere in between American Craft whisky, Speyside sherried malt and classic Kentucky rye. It’s sounds disjointed and unsatisfying, but the solera aging and expert blending have the opposite effect. Round, complex and well put together, it’s truly something unique in the sea of new and derivative whisky offerings.
Smooth Ambler “Old Scout” K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #10108 American Whiskey (750ml) ($39.99)
Our first single barrel of the 107 proof American Whiskey iteration of Old Scout has arrived. Spicy and bold on the palate with rich vanilla on the finish, the extra proof and concentration of the individual cask stands out immensely from the standard Smooth Ambler edition, making this barrel a lovely little anomaly. Fans of youthful, yet robust higher proof Bourbons will definitely want to try a bottle.
Jeffrey Jones | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: May 17, 2018
The Old Scout people have blended together an interesting and delicious whiskey. The nose has a lot of vanilla notes with a background of caramel. In the mouth it is full bodied with a soft and creamy mouth feel. There is a beautiful long, sweet toasted sugar finish. It is 107 proof and I tasted this whiskey with water.
High West “Yippee Ki Yay” Whiskey (750ml) ($79.99)
96 points Wine Enthusiast: “Attention wine lovers: this fab bottling with the cowboy label is made with a blend of straight rye whiskies finished in two wine casks, formerly holding vermouth and Syrah. The result is a deep ruddy amber hue and a strikingly concentrated flavor profile. Look for warming layers of caramel, toffee and espresso, drying to leather, zingy orange peel and spice. Sip or mix into Manhattans or any drink including sweet vermouth. (KN)” (07/2016)
K&L Notes: Another winner from David Perkins and the gang at High West, the new “Yippee Ki Yay” takes rye whiskies from Barton and LDI distilleries and finishes the blend in both Syrah and vermouth barrels for a completely unique experience. The color is an unusual beautiful ruby red. Aromas of fresh cinnamon stick, crushed blackberries, and cassis, with dried herbs in the background. The palate has big, bold punch of cinnamon spice and blackberries on a foundation of vanilla and caramel with rye spices on the finish.
High West “Bourye” Bourbon-Rye Whiskey (750ml) ($69.99)
96 points Wine Enthusiast: “The 2017 limited edition release of this bourbon-rye blend, all a minimum of 10 years old, perfectly balances sweetness and spice. Rich caramel and brown sugar lead on the nose and palate, finishing with clove, nutmeg and cinnamon sizzle, plus a hint of orange peel. (KN)” (07/2017)
92 points Whisky Advocate: “Straight bourbon and rye whiskeys aged from 10 to 14 years, this nicely balances its dry oak, almost cedary, aromas with bourbon sweetness and a rye finish. The initial hit of orange peel, caramel, and vanilla flan yields to a spicy finish of lemon zest, peppercorns, and ginger. (JL, Summer 2017)”
K&L Notes: High West’s latest batch of Bourye, a marriage of bourbon and rye adorned with the elusive jackalope – a cross between a jackrabbit and an antelope – is back for another limited run. The Park City, Utah outpost only releases the Bourye when they have sufficient quantities of the necessary ingredients, which are getting more and more difficult to secure in today’s market. This latest batch is bottled at 46% ABV and consists of rye and bourbon whiskies aged 10 to 14 years from MGP Distillery in Indiana, formerly known as LDI and Seagrams. Considering that a simple ten year old American rye whiskey seems to be worth its weight in gold, the fact that High West has included casks of a much older heritage is no simple task. The balance between both the richness of the bourbon and the spiciness of the rye is quite wonderful here. There are no rough edges, the flavors meander from mellow oak to toasted vanilla, all with a backbone of peppery rye goodness. We never have the Bourye in stock for long and we’re always handling questions about when we’ll get more. David Perkins continues to captivate us with his American whiskey blends, now considered the gold standard of the industry.
That’s it for this week, but stay tuned for the next edition of the Whisk(e)y News!
David Othenin-Girard
SoCal Spirits Buyer
davidgirard@klwines.com@klwines.com
323-464-9463
http://spiritsjournal.klwines.com
http://onthetrail.klwines.com
Phone: (877) KL-WINES (Toll Free 877.559.4637)
Email: wine@klwines.com
K&L Wine Merchants 3005 El Camino Real Redwood City, CA 94061 USA
San Francisco, Redwood City, Hollywood CA
