Late June 2014 Outturn Offerings
Cask No. 7.94 $205
Silk Sarong Seduction
Speyside, Lossie
Caramels swimming in the foam of a chocolate porter; apricot liqueur spilled on a ballroom floor; a leather purse, tanned with Burgundy and sultriness, left on a barstool. The mouth is a silk sarong of smuggled rum and toasted acorns held in the arms of a woman with perfume dabbed on her wrists. A little water gives us her mouth, shaped like a fresh fig, after she’s washed down almond macaroons and orange fudge with cola gone flat on the site of an old chapel in Elgin. Finishing with betel nuts wrapped in honeyed firefly wings for sweetness and light.
Drinking tip: Anniversary dinner: after the cake, before the kiss
Colour: Amber glinting in sunlight
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 27 years
Date distilled: September 1985
Alcohol: 55.6%
USA allocation: 120 bottles
Cask No. 29.146 $150
Bright and uplifting
Islay
Burning heather, smouldering logs and toffee rolled in ash – something medicinal (Germolene, First Aid box) oyster shells, cigar box, glazed gammon with clove, sweet and sour pork with fried rice and increasing peat smoke – that was the nose; somehow bright and uplifting. The palate was ashy, smoky and earthy, with wild mushrooms, soy sauce, prawn toast, gammon and pineapple and tasty spices (cardamom, toasted coriander seeds, chilli). Water opened up the floral side of the nose (rose petals); the palate also developed some perfume – marshmallows, fruity bubble-gum and gin and tonic with cucumber. Friends of this distillery have a square foot.
Drinking tip: To evoke memories of beach bonfires on Islay – or to accompany a Chinese takeaway
Colour: Polished beech
Cask: Refill barrel
Age: 18 years
Date distilled: April 1995
Alcohol: 58.1%
USA allocation: 96 bottles
Cask No. 39.92 $180
Dessert Wine and Smoking Jacket
Speyside, Lossie
Like well-aged Sauternes this complex whisky displays a nose of honey covered toast , chocolate with dapples of coconut and strawberry. The taste delivered a decadent American Breakfast; crispy bacon, pancakes and maple syrup. The addition of water created the notion of supper as scents of grilled pork chop were followed by Eton Mess. Aromas of toasted cedar wood were interspersed with ginger. The palette offered the panel darkly roasted coffee, ginger cake and brown sugar coated peach all consumed within a draughtsman’s office. A decadent offering from this Elgin distillery.
Drinking tip: Cigar in hand and nose upturned
Colour: Golden syrup
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 23 years
Date distilled: October 1990
Alcohol: 49.5%
USA allocation: 72 bottles
Cask No. 100.10 $90
Spritzy and tasty with a bitter twist
Speyside, Deveron
The nose commenced with spirity pear, apple and wood shavings; then sweetness emerged – vanilla, Rice Krispies squares, strawberry Angel Delight, barley sugars and Edinburgh Rock; tea leaves and tobacco later. The palate had pepper, horseradish and wasabi heat, but was tasty (sugared almonds, Cadbury’s mini eggs, red apple, sweet citrus) with an attractive bitter twist (tonic, fruit skins, perfume spray, oak). The reduced nose was more accessible, if little changed (rhubarb and custard sweets, grass, sherbet straws). The palate now settled to peeled twigs, lychees, sherbet lemons, purple fruit pastilles and some spritzy effervescence. This distillery once had a whisky fountain.
Drinking tip: Could be a palate cleanser or an aperitif
Colour: Sandy ocean bed
Cask: Refill barrel
Age: 8 years
Date distilled: February 2005
Alcohol: 60.3%
USA allocation: 120 bottles
Cask No. 121.67 $125
Energising and enigmatic
Highland, Island
The nose could make the unwary recoil (Tabasco, vinegar, nettles, gloss paint), yet it was also sweetly attractive (sticky dates, fig rolls, Liquorice Allsorts, raisins, toffee). The intense, hot, tasty palate had mouth-gripping oak and black tea tannins, stir-fry sauce and jalapenos but was also surprisingly and satisfyingly sweet (sticky toffee pudding, chocolate, runny honey, raspberry ripple). The reduced nose was interesting, energising and enigmatic – putty, waxed jackets and sanded wood, but with comforting kitchen smells (apple crumble, shortbread, lemon sponge). The palate continued lively and tasty – orange peel, lemon meringue pie dusted with pepper and crystallized ginger. Arran’s only distillery.
Drinking tip: A stimulating dram – to spark up the old grey matter when faculties are flagging
Colour: Oiled pine
Cask: Refill hogshead
Age: 13 years
Date distilled: December 1999
Alcohol: 58.1%
USA allocation: 120 bottles
Please visit the Scotch Malt Whisky Society at http://www.smwsa.com/